Successfully Brooding Baby Ducks and Baby Geese
We think
ducks and geese are the underrated gem of the poultry world. In most cases, they are a great addition to any farm or backyard flock. Waterfowl are natural pest control, they produce rich and delicious eggs, and they tend to have very friendly and curious personalities.

Even if you have raised poultry before, raising baby ducks and geese comes with a different set of challenges than
brooding baby chicks. From water management to adequate housing and feed, baby waterfowl require a slightly different approach—especially in the first few weeks.
If you’re planning to brood waterfowl this spring, this guide covers the practical basics of brooding baby ducks and geese the right way.
Housing and Brooder Space
Ideally, you should be raising ducklings and goslings in a clean, predator-proof, draft-free environment such as a shed, garage, or barn. Ensure that your baby poultry have their own separate area if being housed with other livestock.

If your brooder has housed any poultry in the past,
it must be properly sanitized and cleaned first to prevent the spread of disease to your new flock.
Before your ducklings or goslings arrive, ensure your brooder and heat lamp is already set up and functioning at least 24 hours beforehand. After traveling in the mail, you will want to get your poultry set up in their new home right away.
Use a chick brooder that is bigger than what you think you may need. Ducklings and goslings grow incredibly fast, so their brooder will need to grow with them. Allow for at least 1/3 sq foot of space for each bird at hatch, and expand as they grow.
Brooder Tips:
For chick brooders, we recommend large metal stock tanks or a wooden box to house your poultry. If using a plastic tub, take extra care to prevent damage from your heat lamp.
If using a brooder with corners, adding in some carboard or a brooder ring to round out the edges will prevent your poultry from crowding and suffocating.
Bedding
We recommend
the use of pine shavings, as they are highly absorbent and will not irritate your poultry. Chopped straw is also suitable. Lay down at least 2-4 inches of bedding in the brooder to provide adequate traction and insulation for your birds.
Always check your bedding for mold before use. We recommend buying pine shavings in paper bags rather than plastic, as they are less likely to harbor moisture or bacteria.

We do not recommend newspaper, treated wood (such as cedar), or sawdust, as these options can cause severe leg or respiratory issues in your flock.
Waterfowl are notoriously messy—even messier than day-old chicks. Waterfowl frequently splash water, soak their bedding, and create unsanitary conditions quickly. Your gosling and duckling brooder will require more maintenance to keep their living space clean.
Heating Requirements
We always recommend the use of a heat lamp over a brooder plate. As long as you are following heat lamp safety protocols, they are a much better option for your poultry. Reference our
Myers Poultry blog on brooder plates and heat lamps to learn more.
Generally, one heat lamp can handle about 35 ducklings or 20 goslings. We recommend hanging your heat lamp about 18 inches above the brooder floor, but you may need to adjust based on the needs of your birds. A thermometer on the bottom of the brooder should register between 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
You can gradually decrease the heat by 5 degrees each week. Although a thermometer is a necessary tool, observing your poultry will be the best way to gauge how they are doing.
Here is a general idea of how you can drop the temperature down by week:
0-1 week old 90-95º F
1-2 week old 85-90º F
2-3 week old 80-85º F
3-4 week old 75-80º F
4-5 week old 70-75º F
5-6 week old start weaning from heat lamp (above 65º F)
While these temperatures are a good guideline, your poultry will be the best thermometer you have. Be observant and use their behavior as a way to gauge their comfort levels. We recommend watching your poultry closely for at least the first few hours after bringing them home.

If your ducklings and goslings are eating, drinking, sleeping, and moving about the brooder freely, that’s a sign that your flock is happy.
If your birds are huddled together tightly under the heat lamp, this is a sign they are cold.
In this case, check to make sure there isn’t a draft hitting them, and lower the heat lamp a few inches to provide more warmth.
If your birds are overheating, they will be nestled into the corners of your brooder as far away from the heat source as possible. Adjust your lamp as needed until they resume normal activity.
How Long Do Ducks Need a Heat Lamp?
This is a common question we get at Myers Poultry. The answer depends on your local climate conditions, as well as how your waterfowl are adjusting to life in the brooder. Every flock is a little different, so it’s important to watch for signs your ducklings are too hot or too cold.

You can start weaning your ducklings from the heat lamp as early as 3-4 weeks if your evening temperatures are 70 degrees Fahrenheit and above. If it’s warm during the day but gets chilly at night, you might only need the heat lamp in the evenings.
In colder climates, ducklings usually need artificial heat until they’re about 6 weeks old. The same general guideline applies to goslings, though each bird is different and may need more or less time with heat based on its development.
If you're wondering when ducklings can go outside, they can safely move outdoors when they are fully feathered and the weather is mild. This typically happens around 6 weeks of age.
Until then, it’s best to give them access to outdoor time only during warm, dry days with close supervision.
Water for Consumption

Water must be plentiful, as well as deep enough for your waterfowl to drink.
Unlike baby chicks, ducklings and goslings must be able to submerge their entire bill to clean their nostrils and maintain healthy mucous membranes.
Chick waterers are okay temporarily, but they’ll outgrow them quickly.
Upgrade as needed—many growers use small dog bowls, buckets with holes cut in the side, or specialized waterfowl waterers to ensure they are able to dip their bills properly.
Unlike baby chicks, waterfowl are more likely to instinctually understand where their water source is. However, it isn’t a bad idea to dip their bills into their water when they first arrive to ensure they get that crucial hydration after being in transit.
Safety and Cleanliness Tips:
Be sure to provide room-temperature water for your birds at all times. Cold water can shock young birds and lead to health issues or even death.
If you're using waterers or bowls that your waterfowl can climb into, add clean marbles or small rocks to prevent accidental drowning and discourage swimming. Make sure the container is shallow and narrow enough for them to easily climb out if they do get in.
To reduce mess in the brooder, we recommend placing your water station over a tray covered with hardware cloth. Try this setup:
1. Place a shallow tray (½–1 inch deep) in the brooder.
2. Add a wood block of the same thickness inside the tray.
3. Cover with hardware cloth (mesh spacing should be tight enough to protect feet).
4. Place the waterer on top of the wood block. Water drains into the tray below, not into bedding.
Give Your Birds a Boost:
Support your new ducklings and goslings with these supplements after their arrival.
• StresEEZ: Add 1 tsp per 3 gallons of water to support their immune system.
• Aquastart: Helps encourage early feeding and hydration after shipping.
Water for Play and Development
Ducklings and goslings instinctively love water, and you may find them trying to play in their waterer more often than they are actually drinking from it. As adorable as it might seem, it is not safe or advisable to let them swim right away.
For at least the first few weeks, it’s best to keep your waterfowl as dry as possible and discourage swimming behaviors.
Here is Why:
Incubated ducklings and goslings do not receive this oil transfer, so their feathers will be downy and soft, allowing them to absorb water rather than repel it. They will not be producing their own oils until about 3-4 weeks of age, or perhaps even later.
How to Allow Your Waterfowl to Swim Safely
At the minimum, wait until at least 3-4 weeks before introducing water for swimming. Always do swimming sessions in shallow, lukewarm water under supervision only. Keep the sessions short.
When ducklings or goslings are finished, ensure they are towel dried or allowed to air dry under their heat lamp. Observe your waterfowl to make sure they are drying off properly and not chilled.

Once oil production increases, you can allow them to go for longer swims. A sign they are ready is water beading on their feathers.
Remember, waterfowl can drown or become chilled if allowed to swim too early or too long. Observe your flock closely during water time.
Waterfowl Feed
A common issue we witness with growers brooding waterfowl for the first time is improper nutrition. Waterfowl have different needs from baby chicks, so we strongly suggest feeding and brooding them separately from your baby chicks.
High Protein Content
So, if they can't have chick feed, what do baby ducks eat? Waterfowl grow incredibly fast, so they generally need a higher protein content in their food than baby chicks.
Baby ducks eat waterfowl starter feed with 20–22% protein content for the first 2–3 weeks. Transition to a grower feed around 3–4 weeks old (16–18% protein) to support steady growth. The same applies for goslings.
Check with your local feed supplier for brand recommendations.
Niacin Needs
Waterfowl require Niacin (Vitamin B3) to ensure their legs develop properly. Without it, they may suffer from weak legs or joint issues. They need about 2 to 3 times the amount of Niacin as baby chicks.
We recommend choosing a starter feed specifically formulated for waterfowl, as that will meet all of their nutritional needs. If all you have on hand is a general poultry starter feed, you can supplement it with brewer’s yeast (about 1-2 tablespoons per cup of feed) to provide them with Niacin.
Just make sure that the feed you give your waterfowl is non-medicated.
Non-Medicated Feed
Ducklings and goslings should never be given medicated chick feed. Because they eat more than chicks, they can ingest too much medication and overdose. Additionally,
coccidiosis is far less common in waterfowl than baby chicks, so medicated feed is not necessary.
Ducks and geese in general are hardier and more resistant to disease than chickens, so that is another benefit of brooding waterfowl.
Access to Grit
Ducklings and goslings need grit to properly digest their food. Make sure it is always available for them in the brooder.
A Few Important Reminders About Raising Waterfowl
Every species of bird has different needs and personality traits, and waterfowl are no different. If you have brooded chicks in the past, here are some things you may find a bit unexpected about waterfowl.

Sex Ratios Matter
Maintaining proper male-to-female ratios is critical. Unlike chickens or turkeys, the male to female ratio can make or break your flock dynamics.
For ducks, aim for 1 male per 3–5 females. For geese, 1 male per 2–4 females is ideal.
Too many males can result in aggression, injuries, or even death. For the safety of your flock, never house a higher ratio of males to females. Even an equal ratio can spell trouble for your flock, so always let your females outnumber the males if you plan to raise a mixed gender flock.
Fire Safety Note
Ask any seasoned grower, and they will tell you waterfowl are the messiest birds to brood. They love nothing more than splashing water throughout the brooder, and when heat lamps are involved, this can lead to unintended consequences.
Water splashing on a hot heat lamp can be a fire hazard. Position your heat lamp far away from your water source and consider using a guard to protect your bulb. Look for heat lamp bulbs made of explosion proof glass.
When using a heat lamp, always follow lamp safety protocols.
Brooding Mixed Flocks
Ducklings and goslings grow faster than other poultry. Housing them in the same brooder with chicks can lead to them trampling or smothering smaller birds. To ensure everyone in your flock develops properly, it’s best to brood waterfowl separately from chicks.
While brooding them separately is a good idea, you can integrate waterfowl and chickens together when they are adults. Ducks are great at mingling with other species of poultry, as they are typically quite social and docile.
Waterfowl Are Generally Hardier
They can withstand colder temperatures, as well as higher humidity. If you live in a harsh climate, we suggest you consider waterfowl for your flock rather than chickens, as certain breeds can be more sensitive to drastic temperature changes.
Waterfowl Imprint on Their Caretakers
Let’s Get Brooding
Raising baby ducks and goslings can be an incredibly rewarding experience—especially when you’re prepared. From proper heating and bedding, to water management and nutrition, giving your waterfowl the right start makes all the difference in their development.
Have more questions? Browse our
waterfowl resource guide for a condensed version of this blog, or reach out to our team for expert help. When you're ready to grow your flock, we offer a variety of
ducklings for sale and
goslings for sale that make a great addition to any farm or homestead.